Peters skinks are not often seen in captivity and so far have only been bred a couple of times. They are an
Interesting and easy to keep omnivorous African lizard.
They are very friendly have been compared to have a bearded dragon like temperament.
I have a group of these and am thining down so there is more than one available.
They are a burrowing sand species similar to a small blue tongue skink .
Peter’s Banded Skinks are technically omnivorous, however they rarely eat fruits and vegetables. They prefer protein such as cooked chicken, super/mealworms, dubia roaches, crickets, and sometimes even eggs or tuna fish(yes tuna fish! Mine happily accepted some).
I offer food every other day, It is important to dust your food with calcium and vitamins They don’t always need stimulation from their food, but it definitely helps.
They don’t drink much water and get most of the water they need from their food although its good to have a bowl of water available.
They live in the sand so floor area is more important than height for a Peters skink.. A sand substrate is required for the Peter’s Banded Skink. They will get very stressed if they do not have a sand substrate and will die from stress. They require the sand to regulate their body temperature and feel secure from predators. Eco earth or repti-soil can be mixed in with the sand substrate but this isn’t required. Avoid substrates such as aspen shaving, pure eco earth/reptisoil, paper towels, or tile.
The Peter’s Banded Skink does need a basking area. You can add a flat rock to help increase heat, but this is not necessary. Make sure that rocks are supported by other rocks that reach the bottom of the enclosure. Without support, the skink may dig right under the rock and get stuck under the heavy rock. They cannot climb branches or wood very well so they are not necessary but you can add cork tubes/bark to the enclosure.
Since Peter’s Banded Skinks are desert animals, they have a high temperature range and low humidity range. The hot spot temperature should be around 100-110 F. While the cool area temperature should be around 75-80F. Humidity should only be at 20-35%.
As they are nocturnal/crepuscular, many say you do not need UVB although I provide it/. I like to provide it because it makes it more natural for them. Lights should create a day/night cycle, therefore, the light should be on for 12 hours and off for the other 12.